How To Capri

Stay

A bit beyond the center of the little town of Capri, but well worth the 15-minute stroll on a jasmine-scented street, Punta Tragara is perched on the Mediterranean high above the iconic Faraglioni. Located at the end of Via Tragara, the hotel was originally a villa designed in the 1920's by Le Corbusier. The location, which served as the headquarters for the American Command and hosted Eisenhower & Churchill, is dramatic and the views are unparalleled. My room {upgraded from a garden view} overlooked Marina Piccola and a host of large yachts anchored just off the coast. The staff was extremely attentive but unobtrusive, the interiors {especially the baths} fabulous, and the views amazing.

Also on Via Tragera is the tiny but beautiful La Scalinatella {its owners, the Morgano family, also own Casa Morgano & the Quisisana}. Each of the 30 rooms has a unique design, but all are quintessentially Capri with bold patterns and bright colors. Private terraces directly overlook the Mediterranean Sea. If you're in Capri for a bit of peace, La S is much more quiet & subdued than Punta Tragara {in front of which tourists congregate to view La Faraglioni}. Families with children are better served at Casa Morgano next door. And while there is no in-house restaurant, the town of Capri is only a 10-minute walk away.

Eat

Have you ever been to Club Méditerranée? Franco is Edode's chef de village, and you won't be able to resist him, the wait staff, or the food / wine at this fabulous restaurant. Situated at the opposite end of Via Camerelle from the Quisisana, guests of Casa Morgano, La Scalinatella & Punta Tragara will pass it on their way into the center of Capri. Although I admit it was the chic decor that initially drew me in, the amazing food & friendly staff made the meal memorable. I was in the mood for aglio e olio, which wasn't on the menu. But when Franco took my order and said anything you want, I ordered it and it was fantastic. The couple next to me had the Ravioli Caprese and a beef dish, and they loved theirs too. Loads of other offerings, as well as some beautiful desserts {but whatever you do, don't forget an icy limoncello to finish}.

While some prefer Buonocore, I found the best gelato at Bar Embassy, also on the Via Camerelle.  It's the perfect place to pick up a scoop in the evening after a drink on the patio of the Quisisana or on a stroll to the Piazetta {love the pistachio}

Shop
Costanzo, grandson of Amadeo, will very likely be the one behind the counter greeting 'buongiorno' as you enter Canfora. His mother & aunt are the 'hands' behind the operation, continuing to craft sandals as their father did starting in 1946, but Costanzo is likely the one who will help you find the perfect pair, and the perfect fit. As you pursue your jeweled treasure in the piles of sandals heaped throughout the tiny shop, you'll quickly see why the style hall of fame {Jacqueline Kennedy, Grace Kelly, Caroline of Hanover, Elle Macpherson} have worn & loved his family's creations. Although available online, I think a personal fitting by Costanzo in the Via Camerelle storefront is best.

Carthusia is a boutique perfumery based on Capri. According to legend, in the late 1940's the prior of the Carthusian Monastery of San Giacomo discovered certain ancient perfume formulas originating from as far back as 1380 and, with the Pope's permission, revealed them to a chemist from Turin. The original scents were subsequently produced from the small laboratory named "Carthusia". Laura Tonatto continues the monks tradition and, using similar limited production methods, has reworked the fragrances based on the original formulas. The ladies in the shop on Via Camerelle, well armed with paper sticks & coffee beans, will help select the one perfect for you. I loved both Via Camerelle & Corallium, their 1st 'new' fragrance in 300 years.

See also:  Simon Doonan's Guide to Capri for Travel + Leisure; Pamela Fiore's In the Spirit of Capri